Townsend In Alaska01

Waupaca Republican

September 9, 1898

FROM ALASKA

Ezra Townsend Tells of his Trip Homeward

Dawson, July 25, 1898

DEAR WIFE AND CHILDREN:

Am getting ready to leave here. Sold my boat and buckskin suit.

July 26. This morning I sold my tent and some other small truck. We expected the boat to go at 12 o’clock but it did not start until 3. The scenery below Dawson is fine, but the river is like a mud hole. Have enjoyed the ride very much this afternoon.

July 27, 5 p.m. We have stopped for a little while at Circle City. Seems good to be once more under the grand old stars and stripes. We passed a boat today, the Bella, going up to Dawson and one yesterday, the Lear.

July 28. Stayed all night at Circle City and started at three this morning. Run down the river fifteen or twenty miles and pilot gave out. Could not pilot us through the innumerable islands and channels without pocketing us. They are very numerous below Circle, so had to come back for a new pilot. We make a new start and run till three p.m., when we run into a bar and at 7:30 we are still there, doubtful about getting off till morning. Thirty miles from Fort Yukon.

July 29. We got off the bar last night about 8:30. Traveled nearly all night and have made splendid time. The country is low and level, one vast plain with considerable timber, largely spruce and pine, some birch, poplar, balm, gilead and alder bush along banks. Low mountains stretching way to the east. As I write I hear the crack of a rifle and the crowd below helloing, look out, and there running along the bank is a black bear. Six or seven shots are fired, but poor bruin got off without a scratch. We just passed another boat called the Linda B. She had a large barge in tow called the Bear. There is a range of mountains appearing in the south. Saw a little cub just run down to the river bank. It is very picturesque along the river and lots of game.

July 30. We have passed two steamers this morning. The country is more rolling here. We passed the mouth of the Tanana river about seven o’clock this morning. Am not feeling well today at all. There is over three hundred passengers aboard and nearly all are troubled the same, with diarrhea and can not get rid of it. Another steamer just went by, the nicest one we have been going up to Dawson called the Susie. We are now 664 miles from Fort Michaels. It is mountainous on north side of river and patches of snow in places, while on the other it is low and level, covered with timber.

July 31. It has rained most of the day. Getting nearer the coast, river is growing wider and is less hilly to north. Have passed a number of Indian villages yesterday and today. The Indians are catching fish and drying them in the sun for winter consumption. Passed a number of steam tugs today and three other large boats.

Aug. 1. it is rainy today but it is lovely traveling by water. The river is a beautiful sheet of water if it was not so muddy; there are not so many islands. At two o’clock we passed the last foot hills on the north and now is one vast, low plain. River is getting very wide. It has been cloudy all day. Have passed as usual a number of steamers and tugs. Five o’clock and the first table have just sat down to supper, we have four tables.

Aug. 2. Last night was a most beautiful sunset. It set at just 10 o’clock. We are going very slowly and there is a man taking soundings all the time. Water very shallow, five and one-half or six feet deep. On one side of us we can not see land. We have had a nice day and at 5 o’clock we were out on Behring Sea. We will eat supper on the river boat, then we will be transferred to the steamer, Rival, that will convey us to Seattle. St. Michaels is not much of a place. Quite a number of vessels in harbor.

Aug. 3. Went on board the Rival last night about 6 p.m. We expected to sail this afternoon. Am a good deal better since coming near to salt water. Have not felt well for over a month. It is now 6:30 and we are not out of sight of land yet. Started at 3 o’clock. I did not land for we had to anchor quite a way from shore and there was no dock at St. Michaels. No timber around the town. Looked like a rolling prairie. It is situated on an island.

Aug. 4. Have kept my berth all day today for I have been sea sick. The sea is pretty choppy. There was a beautiful sunset.

Aug. 5. Still sea sick, worse today. Sea very rough last night, so it came on top of vessel. Two or three whales sighted during the day.

Aug. 6. Am better today, so ate my breakfast and dinner, although lay in may berth a good deal.

Sunday, Aug. 7. Have not made much progress today it has been so foggy. We sighted some island so now we know we are near Dutch Harbor, but the captain is afraid to run on account of reefs and fog. Saw more whales and the boys caught some codfish. Was terribly rough last night.

Aug. 8. Lay outside Dutch Harbor all night and this morning run in for provisions and water. Left about 1:30. Was on shore and picked some flowers and shells. Left Dutch Harbor and passed through Unsvak straits into the Pacific ocean. The sun has shone this afternoon but it is cold, fair wind and we are making ten knots an hour.

Aug. 9. It has been a pleasant day and most of the passengers spend the time on deck. Fair wind all day and had sail set. The Rival is a staunch vessel and is a steam schooner.

Aug. 10. The same routine, nothing new. We go on deck a while then turn in for a while, then dinner. The afternoon is pent nearly the same. We ran close to some large whales, can see them spouting in all directions.

The 11^th and 12^th are about he same and it is getting dull and tiresome. Some say we are getting short of grub, but they are the ones that are always finding fault with things.

Aug. 13. Think we will sight land tomorrow off Cape Flattery. Nothing of note.

Sunday, Aug. 14. There has been some wind but sea has been smooth. Saw a large whale. At noon we were in latitude 46 north and 136 west longitude.

Aug. 15. Just came up from supper and according to cook’s report we are getting pretty short of grub. No land in sight. Something has gone wrong with machinery and have stopped. The sea is beautiful and calm and has been all day. The condenser gave out and we were detained two hours, when we got fixed up again and proceeded.

Aug. 16. Beautiful morning and have sighted upper end of Vancouver island. We are probably running twenty or thirty miles from land, which is mountainous. As we get nearer the lower end of island there is timber along the shore. Saw a lot of whales basking and playing in the sun. They are not of the sperm kind. We rounded Cape Flattery this evening about 10 o’clock.

Aug. 17. We are all jubilant over the nice weather we have had on this trip and the prospect that we will be in Seattle tonight. We are in the straits of Juan de Fuca, and out next sort will be Port Townsend. Food is getting scarce for we had only mush and a cup of coffee for breakfast. We stopped at Port Townsend one and one-half hours. Steward purchased grub for our dinner, had a very good one. We will be in Seattle in half an hour. So ends this chapter.

Seattle, Aug. 18. It is with pleasure and gratitude that I write to tell you I am once more in Seattle. Arrived yesterday at 4 pm. The trip was nice all the way except we were detained a little by fog near Dutch Harbor. I telegraphed John as soon as I arrived. Hope to hear from you at Portland. My health is not very good but think will recruit now I am where can get fruit and vegetables. I weigh one hundred and fifty pounds. I look rather thin. Shall stay here two or three days and get some laundry done. If do not hear from you to contrary will stay and visit two ro three weeks. Will keep you posted. With these few words will close.

As ever your loving husband and father. EZRA TOWNSEND